April - 2018

Part 1: Jeannette Peak - The Idea

Part 1: Jeannette Peak - The Idea

There are unclimbed mountains in the Rockies? And only 45km from Valemount, B.C ., and Jasper, Alta. … really? YES! Exploration can still be had… Jeannette Peak 3,089 meters / 10,135 feet. Located 45km SW of Jasper & 45km SE of Valemount, in the Selwyn Range of the Canadian Rockies – just outside Mount Robson Provincial Park. A year ago, on a road trip through northern British Columbia while checking out potential places to live, we landed in Valemount, BC. A few months la

Part 2: Jeannette Peak - The First Attempt

Part 2: Jeannette Peak - The First Attempt

First Attempt: March 12-14 2018 Within a week of deciding to attempt Jeannette Peak, after a thorough combing of topographic maps and Google Earth, we were in Valemount at the Robson Helimagic helipad with laminated printouts in hand. Ski-in and snowmobile options had to be abandoned due to inherent overhead hazards in getting to the base of the climb. The 10,135 foot stand-alone mountain has remained unclimbed until now likely due to its narrow avalanche-prone valleys and a

Part 3: Jeannette Peak - The Second Attempt

Part 3: Jeannette Peak - The Second Attempt

Second Attempt: April 2-3 2018 We were lucky to have the flexibility to wait for another weather window for our second try; this time, as a team of three, with good friend and mountaineer Vern Stice added to the adventure. Our plan was to bring all our gear for a high camp – just in case the route was not as straight-forward as we’d hoped. Landing once again at Wolverine Camp, we started up the snow slope in cold winter conditions. Pascale making her way up to the west ridg

Part 4: Jeannette Peak - The Routes

Part 4: Jeannette Peak - The Routes

As goes with all exploration, there are multiple failures before success can be attained. In the excitement of pioneering this unclimbed mountain and establishing routes, we played through a wide range of emotions. Projects always seem easier after they are completed, once the unknown is now known. We spent a year researching and planning for this climb and were prepared for serious mountaineering. We rated our 1084-meter (3,557-feet) route up the northwest shoulder and w

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