February - 2017

Winter Carpe: Final Training

Winter Carpe: Final Training

The team spent two months training in the Canadian Rockies. They enjoyed climbing waterfall ice, skiing the powder and refreshing self-arrest and glacier travel skills. Image: Pascale ice climbing by Bryce Brown Image Here the team was with friend Bryce Brown on a classic climb called Circus Circus located in Yoho National Park, an ice waterfall that rarely forms - what a treat. Image: Ice Climbing Circus Circus & Bryce Brown on Circus by Lonnie DupreScheduleSchedule

Winter Carpe

Winter Carpe

Located in the shadow of Alaska’s Denali, Mt. Carpe (12,552 ft) can be brutally cold. The two person team Dupre and Marceau, can expect minus 50 degree temperatures, high winds and 10 hours of daylight. The attempt at Mt Carpe’s first winter ascent will be a test of human will, mountaineering skills and 25 years of polar expedition experience. Route Description: The duo will fly into Kantishna, the last stop on the Denali Park Road which is closed during the winter. On skis,

Gearing up for a Winter Climb: Warm Hands

Gearing up for a Winter Climb: Warm Hands

The best system I have found to keep my flanges warm are brain and smoke tanned deer skin and Norwegian knull-bended wool liners – hands down! Northern indigenous cultures use a process of smoke tanning which keeps the mittens durable and supple. It also increases the leathers insulation value and makes it more breathable. The key to the wool liner is that its natural lanolin is preserved, which helps keep the liner drier and allows me to beat the frost out of it at the end

Gearing up for a Winter Climb: How to Keep Feet Warm at -60F?

Gearing up for a Winter Climb: How to Keep Feet Warm at -60F?

First, it starts with good boots which inevitably comes with trade-offs. The more support and stiffer the boot, the colder your feet are going to be… regardless of insulation. That is why at times, even in the best mountaineering boots, people lose toes. There is plenty of insulation, but the rigidity of the boot restricts circulation. For mountaineering, rigid support is essential to hold crampons, for front pointing and for those steep and rugged pitches and ridges. On the

Gearing up for a Winter Climb: Tasty Energy Bars

Gearing up for a Winter Climb: Tasty Energy Bars

This energy bar packs a punch. It’s really easy to be creative too – tweak it to use your favorites. We typically plan on 2 bars a day per person. The bars stay soft, even in extreme cold. Ingredients: Equal parts of by volume: Crunchy peanut butter Sesame butter Unsweetened shredded coconut Fine diced apricots – use cranberries or any other dried fruit Whipped honey Instant oats Half the volume as above: Clarified Butter Preparation: Heat everything up in a l

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