Part 4: Jeannette Peak - The Routes

As goes with all exploration, there are multiple failures before success can be attained. In the excitement of pioneering this unclimbed mountain and establishing routes, we played through a wide range of emotions. Projects always seem easier after they are completed, once the unknown is now known. We spent a year researching and planning for this climb and were prepared for serious mountaineering. We rated our 1084-meter (3,557-feet) route up the northwest shoulder and west ridge as alpine grade PD. We believe this is one of the few safe routes up the mountain.

The north ridge route could be made by a good team looking for a challenge. We would recommend it be done in good snow conditions with at least two snow pickets, some rock pro and possibly a couple ice screws. We could not see well beyond the crux but one should be prepared for 200 meters of jagged ridge. Our estimate is that is likely an alpine grade D.

Both the above routes would likely be more challenging during summer months when there is little to no snow.

Red = successful route 1084m via the northwest shoulder and west ridge. Blue = first attempt to rock crux at 9700ft.

52.64120,-118.65820 = Wolverine Camp @2005m (6,578ft)

52.63661, -118.64076 = Shark Fin Camp @2663m (8,737ft)

52.63560,-118.61670 = Summit Geographic @3089 (10,135ft)

Garmin pin points of Wolverine Camp, Shark Fin Camp and Summit

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