Gearing up for a Winter Climb: Stove & Fuel

My choice of stove for winter solo expeditions is the MSR Dragon Fly; it is most efficient for liters of water produced per ounce of fuel burned. Also allows for regulating the heat output thus extending fuel supply. I get by using only 7oz of fuel per day when winter climbing with this stove.

For two or more team members, I go with the Whisperlite International. It’s slightly less efficient and versatile but is much quieter for chatting and just having a little extra peace at camp. Plan on 11oz per person, per day, during the winter.

Both these stoves are efficient, clean burning and easy to repair. I choose white gas because it is clean,with high BTU. White gas remains usable, even at the lowest of temperatures. These attributes make it my top choice over kerosene, various alcohols or fuel canisters.

I use anodized aluminum pots. This material transfers heat better than stainless steel or titanium allowing for quicker boil times. I fit an aluminum screen around the pot that acts as a windshield, a heat reflector and a pot stabilizer. Schedule

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