Located in the shadow of Alaska’s Denali, Mt. Carpe (12,552 ft) can be brutally cold. The two person team Dupre and Marceau, can expect minus 50 degree temperatures, high winds and 10 hours of daylight. The attempt at Mt Carpe’s first winter ascent will be a test of human will, mountaineering skills and 25 years of polar expedition experience.
Route Description: The duo will fly into Kantishna, the last stop on the Denali Park Road which is closed during the winter. On skis, they will make their way onto the Muldrow glacier via Wonder lake, Turtle hill and McGonagall pass. This was the classic route followed for the 1st ascent of Denali in 1913.
Once on the glacier, the team will glacier ski travel around the Carpe ridge to the Traleika glacier. They will then work their way up that glacier and take its west fork. They will tackle the mountain via a spur off the west fork and climb via the SW face of Carpe. This route was climbed in Aug 1995; Carpe has never been climbed in winter via any route.
The duo hopes to fly into the Alaska Range on March 2nd – weather permitting.
A special thanks goes to his sponsors, each playing their unique part in keeping Dupre and Marceau alive and well on the mountain.